The Harvard Center for Risk Analysis looked at the risk to U.S. citizens of mad cow disease in 2001 and again in 2003. The Harvard report determined the risk to be very low to humans. The study felt that as long as the FDA and USDA continued with current restrictions to processing 'at risk' meat materials into human food, and with current restrictions to processing 'at risk' animal material into animal feed of ruminants (cattle, sheep, pigs), the risk to humans would remain low. Unfortunately, it is a different story for our pets. Current regulations allow 'at risk' materials to be processed into pet food and it is a very common practice.
Current U.S. rules regarding 'at risk' materials originated from an outbreak of mad cow disease in the United Kingdom. During the 1980's the UK suffered a significant problem with the disease which ended up being responsible for the death of 1000 people. During the height of the problem, it was reported that mad cow disease spread to animals including cats. When the cats were diagnosed, European pet food manufacturers voluntarily agreed to restrict the processing of 'at risk' materials into pet food. "In 1996, however, Agriculture Minister Angela Browning informed the House of Commons that 'mammalian meat and bone meal-powdered residue from culled and rendered cattle is used in pet food.' Labour Parliament member and microbiologist Martyn Jones called Browning's admission 'an astounding revelation. 'This stuff is so risky that they are not even allowed to bury it,' Jones stated. 'Yet they are getting rid of it by passing it on to pet food manufacturers.'
In the United States, the FDA allows risk materials to be processed into pet food, yet they also realize the risk. In 2003 when a confirmed mad cow disease diagnosed animal was processed into pet food - Dr. Crawford of the FDA told United Press International "If we determine that some of it was headed for pet food, we would likely recall that," Crawford said. But he noted the agency would not take any action until it gets confirmation, which probably will occur on Monday. The main threat among pets is cats because they "are susceptible to BSE," he said. Dr. Crawford said there is no way of knowing how much pet food would have to be recalled. But he said the FDA does not consider the infectious agent, called a prion, can be diluted to safe levels, so even if a small batch of infected pet food was mixed with a ton of other food, "the ton would have to be destroyed." The issue remains, the FDA understands the threat of mad cow disease to U.S. pets - yet they still allow it.
Recently a congressional panel began listening to testimony regarding 'at risk' material and the most recent beef recall. Many have been called to testify including the Humane Society. It seems the Humane Society has completely changed their stance on at risk materials in the past four years. From a 2004 article ""Dr. Michael Greger of the Humane Society of the United States said downer cows that don't pass inspection often wind up in pet food. They yield much less revenue than those that remain standing. The financial incentive for plant operators and employees, then, is to force hurt and sick cows to stand by any means necessary, rather than put them down, Greger said. "A truly comprehensive ban on meat from downer animals is needed," he said. Greger urged lawmakers to support the Downed Animal and Food Safety Protection Act, a bill that would ban processing downed animals. That, he said, would take away the incentive for plant workers to prolong the life of a suffering animal. Instead, he said, all downer cows could be euthanized and used for pet food or other products that don't involve human consumption." Sadly today the Humane Society - an organization that is supposed to protect all pets - considers it safe for U.S. pets to consume 'at risk' materials. The Humane Society considers it safe for U.S. pets to consume euthanized sick animals and for our pets to consume the euthanizing drug. This is a completely different opinion since August 2004. It causes a pet owner to wonder if any large corporations have made significant donations to the Humane Society since 2004.
Just a FYI - February 26, 2008 - it was reported that a confirmed case of mad cow disease was found in a six year old cow in Alberta, Canada. Good news for pet food manufactured in Canada is that in 2007 Canada strengthened their safety protocol on risk materials to include a ban for their use in pet food. Hopefully, the FDA and the USDA will learn something from our Canadian neighbors BEFORE something terrible happens here. For those that do not know - pet food or pet treat ingredients that could contain processed downer cattle or any euthanized animal are: Meat Meal, Meat and Bone Meal, Meat By-Products, Beef By-Products, Beef By-Product Meal, Animal Fat, and Animal Digest. I can't say this enough, read the ingredient listing of your pet's food and treats.
2008年8月24日星期日
2008年8月19日星期二
Tips For Efficient Coyote Hunting
Coyote hunting is becoming more and more popular among hunting enthusiasts due to the fact that it offers a real thrill when you chase them in the wilderness. It is well-known that coyotes are very intelligent animals so you have to have a quick hand and mind to catch these clever animals; here are some tips that will come in hand in the nick of time:
Tip No.1 : The first thing you should do is try to remove your scent, make sure that you are odorless because coyotes have a very sensitive nose and they will observe you from a respectable distance if you fail removing your odor.
Tip No.2 : Be careful when you choose your gun, this is one of the most important tips you should take into consideration. Many experienced hunters use the Mini Bolt.22 or the Big Boy Special Editions, it depends on the hunter prefers.
Tip No.3 : Choose the proper camouflage pattern for the nature conditions in which you will do your hunting. No matter what type of pattern you will choose it is highly advisable to sit near trees or bushes so that your chances of being spotted will be as low as possible.
Tip No.4 : Calling can be very efficient if you do it the right way. The market offers a huge variety of products from which you may take your pick. Regardless of what you choose, be sure not to make the mistake that most hunters make: calling to loud. You must keep it at a medium level, never exaggerate. Don’t forget to give the coyote time to respond to your call, with other words, be patience. Some prefer mouth blowing, some prefer electronic calls, it depends on each and every hunter.
Tip No.5 : It involves movement. You must do everything that you can to keep your movement at a minimum level. The coyote is a very perceptive animal and will surely observe you before you observe him, so try to stand still most of the time.
Tip No.6 : Decoys can improve your efficiency if you use them the right way. You could use a life-like coyote decoy or a rabbit decoy as well as others, the choice is up to you. Decoys are good because they take the attention away from the hunter and on to the decoy thus improving your chances for a more efficient shot.
Tip No.7 : One of the newest trends in coyote hunting is using dogs. Choosing the proper dog can be a real problem. Some say that the American Staghound is the best choice, some say that the Plott Hound is the most efficient, it all depends on the dogs because not all dogs are the same; it depends on the breed, the way that they were trained and others as well.
Tip No.8 : Hunting during the night can be more exciting but it is also quite harder. There are a couple of things that you should be aware of before hunting during the night : your vision is limited during the night and due to this fact the coyote’s can’t be spotted as easily as they can be during the day; the wind is usually lower during the night; the shot is harder because you won’t be able to observe the target entirely. During the night you should: anticipate your shot, watch the back side as well as the wind, use your light properly.
I hope these tips will come in hand when you are out in the wilderness hunting coyotes. Be careful to use the proper equipment ( calls, decoys, rifles ) as well as the best hunting dogs for coyote hunts because as you all know, coyotes are known to escape when you least expect it.
Tip No.1 : The first thing you should do is try to remove your scent, make sure that you are odorless because coyotes have a very sensitive nose and they will observe you from a respectable distance if you fail removing your odor.
Tip No.2 : Be careful when you choose your gun, this is one of the most important tips you should take into consideration. Many experienced hunters use the Mini Bolt.22 or the Big Boy Special Editions, it depends on the hunter prefers.
Tip No.3 : Choose the proper camouflage pattern for the nature conditions in which you will do your hunting. No matter what type of pattern you will choose it is highly advisable to sit near trees or bushes so that your chances of being spotted will be as low as possible.
Tip No.4 : Calling can be very efficient if you do it the right way. The market offers a huge variety of products from which you may take your pick. Regardless of what you choose, be sure not to make the mistake that most hunters make: calling to loud. You must keep it at a medium level, never exaggerate. Don’t forget to give the coyote time to respond to your call, with other words, be patience. Some prefer mouth blowing, some prefer electronic calls, it depends on each and every hunter.
Tip No.5 : It involves movement. You must do everything that you can to keep your movement at a minimum level. The coyote is a very perceptive animal and will surely observe you before you observe him, so try to stand still most of the time.
Tip No.6 : Decoys can improve your efficiency if you use them the right way. You could use a life-like coyote decoy or a rabbit decoy as well as others, the choice is up to you. Decoys are good because they take the attention away from the hunter and on to the decoy thus improving your chances for a more efficient shot.
Tip No.7 : One of the newest trends in coyote hunting is using dogs. Choosing the proper dog can be a real problem. Some say that the American Staghound is the best choice, some say that the Plott Hound is the most efficient, it all depends on the dogs because not all dogs are the same; it depends on the breed, the way that they were trained and others as well.
Tip No.8 : Hunting during the night can be more exciting but it is also quite harder. There are a couple of things that you should be aware of before hunting during the night : your vision is limited during the night and due to this fact the coyote’s can’t be spotted as easily as they can be during the day; the wind is usually lower during the night; the shot is harder because you won’t be able to observe the target entirely. During the night you should: anticipate your shot, watch the back side as well as the wind, use your light properly.
I hope these tips will come in hand when you are out in the wilderness hunting coyotes. Be careful to use the proper equipment ( calls, decoys, rifles ) as well as the best hunting dogs for coyote hunts because as you all know, coyotes are known to escape when you least expect it.
2008年8月12日星期二
Potty Trained Puppy
Oh, isn’t she just the cutest thing you have ever seen? That brand new little puppy you received as a Christmas present is the best gift you have ever received. You are so excited and you just can’t wait to…Wait a minute! What’s that smell? You have got to be kidding me! And so it begins.
A lot of new owners find that puppy house training is one of the most frustrating things they face. House training your puppy DOES take a little work, but it doesn’t have to be frustrating. The fact is that potty training your puppy can be a relatively easy experience.
The first thing you need to do when you are potty training your puppy is to find the puppy her own place. It may be a dog crate or it may be a small bathroom. The important thing is that the puppy has a place where she sleeps and spends time. This special place will become the puppies “den” and dogs don’t like going to the bathroom in their den.
You should make sure she sleeps in its den at night because it can be very confusing to a puppy when she sleeps in a different place all the time. Every morning, you should take her straight outside. That way, the puppy will learn she needs to go outside to do her business and the puppy house training will go a lot smoother.
One of the more popular methods of potty training your puppy is called the “crate method.” You get a large crate and you put the puppy’s pillow and toys in it. You make it as comfortable as possible for the new puppy. This will become the puppies den and she will not go to the bathroom in it unless she just can’t wait.
That brings us to the question of how often a new puppy should be taken outside. Typically, when you first start house breaking your puppy, she should be taken outside approximately every 45 minutes. Not only does this make sure she gets to go potty regularly but it also teaches her that she is supposed to do her business outside.
When a puppy has an accident in the house, you need to scold her and take her outside immediately. When the puppy goes to the bathroom outside, you need to praise her and give her lots of love. This will teach the puppy what is acceptable and what is not acceptable.
Here are five important tips to remember when you are trying to house break your puppy…
1. You should always praise your puppy when she does what she is supposed to do.
2. Give your puppy a treat when she goes to the bathroom outside.
3. You should scold your puppy if she makes a mistake in the house but you need to do it immediately. It can cause more harm than good if you scold the puppy later. She won’t understand why she is being scolded.
4. Take the puppy outside at least every 45 minutes. You should give her a command to “Go potty!” or something to that effect. She will learn what she needs to do when you give her that command.
5. Thoroughly clean any area where the puppy has made a mistake. The odor will attract her back to the same spot and she will do it again. Non-ammonia products tend to work best.
Patience is very important when you are house breaking your puppy. There will be accidents; they just can’t be avoided. The key is consistency. Take the puppy out regularly. Praise her when she is good. Scold her when she is bad. Some puppies can learn very quickly and some puppies take a little longer. Either way, you will become best friends and you will enjoy a long, happy, accident-free time with your potty trained puppy!
A lot of new owners find that puppy house training is one of the most frustrating things they face. House training your puppy DOES take a little work, but it doesn’t have to be frustrating. The fact is that potty training your puppy can be a relatively easy experience.
The first thing you need to do when you are potty training your puppy is to find the puppy her own place. It may be a dog crate or it may be a small bathroom. The important thing is that the puppy has a place where she sleeps and spends time. This special place will become the puppies “den” and dogs don’t like going to the bathroom in their den.
You should make sure she sleeps in its den at night because it can be very confusing to a puppy when she sleeps in a different place all the time. Every morning, you should take her straight outside. That way, the puppy will learn she needs to go outside to do her business and the puppy house training will go a lot smoother.
One of the more popular methods of potty training your puppy is called the “crate method.” You get a large crate and you put the puppy’s pillow and toys in it. You make it as comfortable as possible for the new puppy. This will become the puppies den and she will not go to the bathroom in it unless she just can’t wait.
That brings us to the question of how often a new puppy should be taken outside. Typically, when you first start house breaking your puppy, she should be taken outside approximately every 45 minutes. Not only does this make sure she gets to go potty regularly but it also teaches her that she is supposed to do her business outside.
When a puppy has an accident in the house, you need to scold her and take her outside immediately. When the puppy goes to the bathroom outside, you need to praise her and give her lots of love. This will teach the puppy what is acceptable and what is not acceptable.
Here are five important tips to remember when you are trying to house break your puppy…
1. You should always praise your puppy when she does what she is supposed to do.
2. Give your puppy a treat when she goes to the bathroom outside.
3. You should scold your puppy if she makes a mistake in the house but you need to do it immediately. It can cause more harm than good if you scold the puppy later. She won’t understand why she is being scolded.
4. Take the puppy outside at least every 45 minutes. You should give her a command to “Go potty!” or something to that effect. She will learn what she needs to do when you give her that command.
5. Thoroughly clean any area where the puppy has made a mistake. The odor will attract her back to the same spot and she will do it again. Non-ammonia products tend to work best.
Patience is very important when you are house breaking your puppy. There will be accidents; they just can’t be avoided. The key is consistency. Take the puppy out regularly. Praise her when she is good. Scold her when she is bad. Some puppies can learn very quickly and some puppies take a little longer. Either way, you will become best friends and you will enjoy a long, happy, accident-free time with your potty trained puppy!
2008年8月11日星期一
What is Horse Cribbing?
What is Horse Cribbing and How can I get my Horse to STOP?
WHAT IS CRIBBING?
Do you know that CRIBBING is not only rough on barns and fences, but it also may be detrimental to a horse's health? The horse wears down his teeth and swallows air, which can lead to inappropriate digestion and colic. Cribbing can lead to serious health problems, such as poor digestion, colic, and various dental problems.
Cribbing is an obsessive-compulsive behavior when a horse chews on wood and swallows air. The cribber uses its upper teeth to grab a stationary object, such as a fence board, and then arches its neck, pulls backwards while swallowing air and grunting. Other horses crib by resting their incisors on an object without grasping it; still others rest their chin on an object and swallow air.
WHY DO HORSES CRIB?
It's not known what causes cribbing in horses.
There appears to be an inherited susceptibility to STRESS in horses, so genetics are part of the answer. When a horse cribs, it is believed that his body releases endorphins, which stimulate the pleasure center of his brain as why it is such an addictive habit, and such a hard one to break. This may explain why horses crib when under stress, as well. A horse's INABILITY TO GRAZE can be a significant stress that is commonly thought to lead to repetitive cribbing behavior.
IMPROPER DIET AND FEEDING PRACTICES are commonly cited as factors that may lead to cribbing. Improper diet and feeding is also thought to contribute to cribbing, perhaps because it may cause a horse more stress.
Another popular theory is that cribbing is due to BOREDOM, AND LACK OF EXERCISE. Horses kept stalled are more likely to become Cribbers than horses that are allowed to roam in a pasture. Semi-wild horses or horses in the wild or in the pasture naturally spend 90% of their time grazing and are less likely to crib.
Every horse handles stress differently, some better than others. It appears that susceptibility to stress in horses is INHERITED, so genetics may play a part also.
WHAT IS THE TREATMENT FOR A CRIBBER?
Food - Horses need to eat throughout the day and keep their minds active lest they become bored and stressed, since boredom is the most common reason why a horse will pick up the cribbing habit.
Cribbing Straps - Crib straps aren't perfect but they do succeed in suppressing many cribbers, so it's an inexpensive option that's worth a try.
Electro-Shock Collars - These collars are worn around the upper neck just like a crib strap; the strap emits an electric shock to shock the horse each time he takes hold of a fence to crib.
Electric Fencing - Stringing electric fencing along the top of any paddock and/or pasture fences is an effective way to stop them from cribbing on fences. Electric fencing is highly encouraged since it will effectively stop cribbing in its tracks on the protected locations.
Chew Stop And Related Products - Some Non-Toxic Products are now available in the market. These can be sprayed or painted on popular cribbing areas to lend a very unappetizing taste and smell, thereby discouraging a cribber from taking hold of the area. These products are typically recognized as the most humane and cost effective methods to stop your horse from cribbing.
Surgical Procedure - This procedure entails cutting some of the muscles and nerves in the ventral neck region as well as the removal of some muscle tissue.
Anti-depressant - It is an injected to the animal, which prohibits the creation of endorphins, thereby suppressing the natural high a horse gains when he cribs. This is not a practical solution since the effects are short-lived, but further research is being done on similar drugs that may have a longer lasting effect.
MORE TIPS AND PREVENTIVE MEASURES
Once a horse starts cribbing it is difficult to get them to stop. The best thing is to try to distract and prevent it from occurring in the first place. One of the most common aids in breaking your horse from the cribbing habit are:
-Allow your horse as much pasture time, in as big a pasture as possible
-Spend time training and handling the horse to help prevent boredom.
-Provide your horse with a companion, preferably another horse, but goats also often make good companions for horses.
-Distract your horse with multiple feedings; pasture time and toys before the habit becomes ingrained.
-Allow your horse access to fresh grass, or grass hay at all times.
To date we know of no proof or studies that indicate a horse learns to crib from being around a cribber, and it is likely that several factors come in to play to cause this disorder.
Finally, if your horse suddenly picks up cribbing and doesn't seem to have developed it from one of the normal causes, it would be a good idea to ask your veterinarian to check your horse and make sure there isn’t a medical cause for the cribbing.
For more helpful information on cribbing please visit www.horse-cribbing.com
WHAT IS CRIBBING?
Do you know that CRIBBING is not only rough on barns and fences, but it also may be detrimental to a horse's health? The horse wears down his teeth and swallows air, which can lead to inappropriate digestion and colic. Cribbing can lead to serious health problems, such as poor digestion, colic, and various dental problems.
Cribbing is an obsessive-compulsive behavior when a horse chews on wood and swallows air. The cribber uses its upper teeth to grab a stationary object, such as a fence board, and then arches its neck, pulls backwards while swallowing air and grunting. Other horses crib by resting their incisors on an object without grasping it; still others rest their chin on an object and swallow air.
WHY DO HORSES CRIB?
It's not known what causes cribbing in horses.
There appears to be an inherited susceptibility to STRESS in horses, so genetics are part of the answer. When a horse cribs, it is believed that his body releases endorphins, which stimulate the pleasure center of his brain as why it is such an addictive habit, and such a hard one to break. This may explain why horses crib when under stress, as well. A horse's INABILITY TO GRAZE can be a significant stress that is commonly thought to lead to repetitive cribbing behavior.
IMPROPER DIET AND FEEDING PRACTICES are commonly cited as factors that may lead to cribbing. Improper diet and feeding is also thought to contribute to cribbing, perhaps because it may cause a horse more stress.
Another popular theory is that cribbing is due to BOREDOM, AND LACK OF EXERCISE. Horses kept stalled are more likely to become Cribbers than horses that are allowed to roam in a pasture. Semi-wild horses or horses in the wild or in the pasture naturally spend 90% of their time grazing and are less likely to crib.
Every horse handles stress differently, some better than others. It appears that susceptibility to stress in horses is INHERITED, so genetics may play a part also.
WHAT IS THE TREATMENT FOR A CRIBBER?
Food - Horses need to eat throughout the day and keep their minds active lest they become bored and stressed, since boredom is the most common reason why a horse will pick up the cribbing habit.
Cribbing Straps - Crib straps aren't perfect but they do succeed in suppressing many cribbers, so it's an inexpensive option that's worth a try.
Electro-Shock Collars - These collars are worn around the upper neck just like a crib strap; the strap emits an electric shock to shock the horse each time he takes hold of a fence to crib.
Electric Fencing - Stringing electric fencing along the top of any paddock and/or pasture fences is an effective way to stop them from cribbing on fences. Electric fencing is highly encouraged since it will effectively stop cribbing in its tracks on the protected locations.
Chew Stop And Related Products - Some Non-Toxic Products are now available in the market. These can be sprayed or painted on popular cribbing areas to lend a very unappetizing taste and smell, thereby discouraging a cribber from taking hold of the area. These products are typically recognized as the most humane and cost effective methods to stop your horse from cribbing.
Surgical Procedure - This procedure entails cutting some of the muscles and nerves in the ventral neck region as well as the removal of some muscle tissue.
Anti-depressant - It is an injected to the animal, which prohibits the creation of endorphins, thereby suppressing the natural high a horse gains when he cribs. This is not a practical solution since the effects are short-lived, but further research is being done on similar drugs that may have a longer lasting effect.
MORE TIPS AND PREVENTIVE MEASURES
Once a horse starts cribbing it is difficult to get them to stop. The best thing is to try to distract and prevent it from occurring in the first place. One of the most common aids in breaking your horse from the cribbing habit are:
-Allow your horse as much pasture time, in as big a pasture as possible
-Spend time training and handling the horse to help prevent boredom.
-Provide your horse with a companion, preferably another horse, but goats also often make good companions for horses.
-Distract your horse with multiple feedings; pasture time and toys before the habit becomes ingrained.
-Allow your horse access to fresh grass, or grass hay at all times.
To date we know of no proof or studies that indicate a horse learns to crib from being around a cribber, and it is likely that several factors come in to play to cause this disorder.
Finally, if your horse suddenly picks up cribbing and doesn't seem to have developed it from one of the normal causes, it would be a good idea to ask your veterinarian to check your horse and make sure there isn’t a medical cause for the cribbing.
For more helpful information on cribbing please visit www.horse-cribbing.com
2008年8月7日星期四
Healthy Pet Treats: What To Look For
If you are a dog or cat owner, you undoubtedly have come across the myriad of dog and cat treats available today. Determining what type of dog or cat treat to give to your pet can be challenging. While there is a wide variety of so-called healthy pet treats; what to look for specifically is the subject of our discussion.
There used to be a time when milk bones would suffice; in most cases they still remain the top choice for most pet owners. However, there are considerations you must make to safeguard the health of your pet. The ingredients in any treat must be the first priority. No doubt your vet will advise you as to the nutritional value of most treats, or you can certainly research their viability on your own.
The caloric intake is the second consideration. Too many treats are not a healthy way to maintain your pet's weight (same applies to humans as well). The ingredients should be of the highest quality. For example: Milk bone treats consist of 15% protein; 12% moisture; 5% crude fat; and 3.5% crude fiber. The size of the dog determines the size of the treat; 1-8 of these treats a day are a good dietary regimen for large dogs. As long as the treats are low in fat and high in vitamins and minerals, there will unlikely be any stomach upset to your pet. Conversely, smaller milk bone treats are ideal for puppies; and a recommendation of 1-3 biscuits a day is sufficient.
Pets are no less fussy than humans. There are some pets who desire certain treats. Certain types of dogs require treat experimentation to ascertain which treat they prefer, especially puppies. Older dogs, however, invite any type of treat with excitement; but in any case, choosing the safest and healthiest treat is ultimately up to you.
Never substitute treats for good nutrition. Feed your pet the best quality food available. It is not advised to give any pet table food, chocolate or any other type of "human" food that will wreak havoc with their digestive system. While it may take a while to determine which type of food your pet finds acceptable; if it is high quality, your pet will most likely settle for it without any problem.
By their very nature, treats are just that; a reward for good behavior or just because you want to give them something special. It's akin to a snack; and everyone enjoys a snack now and then, right? A good way to control treat-giving is to break the treat in half. In this way, your pet will not expect that which he didn't receive in the first place. In addition, this will save you money in the long run, as the treats will last longer.
If your pet has any food allergies, check with the vet who can advise you which treats are suitable. While some pet owners use specialized treats for dental hygiene, the best method would be to simply brush away the plaque and tartar. Another consideration is to ensure that your dog actually chews the treat, and not swallow it whole. Breaking the treat in half or in pieces is recommended.
Pets not only provide unconditional love, but trust that you will take care of them in every facet of their growth process. This applies to their diet as well. As with all healthy pet treats, what to look for as it relates to nutritional benefit should be first and foremost in the care of your pet.
There used to be a time when milk bones would suffice; in most cases they still remain the top choice for most pet owners. However, there are considerations you must make to safeguard the health of your pet. The ingredients in any treat must be the first priority. No doubt your vet will advise you as to the nutritional value of most treats, or you can certainly research their viability on your own.
The caloric intake is the second consideration. Too many treats are not a healthy way to maintain your pet's weight (same applies to humans as well). The ingredients should be of the highest quality. For example: Milk bone treats consist of 15% protein; 12% moisture; 5% crude fat; and 3.5% crude fiber. The size of the dog determines the size of the treat; 1-8 of these treats a day are a good dietary regimen for large dogs. As long as the treats are low in fat and high in vitamins and minerals, there will unlikely be any stomach upset to your pet. Conversely, smaller milk bone treats are ideal for puppies; and a recommendation of 1-3 biscuits a day is sufficient.
Pets are no less fussy than humans. There are some pets who desire certain treats. Certain types of dogs require treat experimentation to ascertain which treat they prefer, especially puppies. Older dogs, however, invite any type of treat with excitement; but in any case, choosing the safest and healthiest treat is ultimately up to you.
Never substitute treats for good nutrition. Feed your pet the best quality food available. It is not advised to give any pet table food, chocolate or any other type of "human" food that will wreak havoc with their digestive system. While it may take a while to determine which type of food your pet finds acceptable; if it is high quality, your pet will most likely settle for it without any problem.
By their very nature, treats are just that; a reward for good behavior or just because you want to give them something special. It's akin to a snack; and everyone enjoys a snack now and then, right? A good way to control treat-giving is to break the treat in half. In this way, your pet will not expect that which he didn't receive in the first place. In addition, this will save you money in the long run, as the treats will last longer.
If your pet has any food allergies, check with the vet who can advise you which treats are suitable. While some pet owners use specialized treats for dental hygiene, the best method would be to simply brush away the plaque and tartar. Another consideration is to ensure that your dog actually chews the treat, and not swallow it whole. Breaking the treat in half or in pieces is recommended.
Pets not only provide unconditional love, but trust that you will take care of them in every facet of their growth process. This applies to their diet as well. As with all healthy pet treats, what to look for as it relates to nutritional benefit should be first and foremost in the care of your pet.
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